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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.